The default Starlink setup requires AC power to a router that then sends DC power to the outdoor dish. All the magic is inside the dish, the router is just a simple wifi router and a 48v DC POE power supply for the dish. Since I already have a router I would like to ditch the starlink router. The normal option for this would be to buy the starlink ethernet adapter and setup bypass mode. This would still leave the AC power requirement and the starlink router consuming power to do nothing. I instead removed the start link router completely modified the ethernet adapter to connect to a passive POE injector which is fed by a 48v DC buck from my 12v DC battery bank.
To do the DC conversion I only had to permanently modify the $25 starlink ethernet adapter. The cable between the dish(y) and the ethernet adapter is unmodified with its proprietary adapters. I cut the router end of the ethernet adapter off and terminated the larger wire pairs with a shielded RJ45 connector wired to 568B standards. I then used a shielded RJ45 coupler to connect a special ethernet cable back to a passive POE injector. The POE injector is fed by a special ethernet cable connected to the indoor router WAN port and a 12v to 48v DC buck. The special patch cables are simply ethernet cables with one end terminated to a custom wire order (not 568A or 568B). The starlink system needs the power on different wires so the green and blue wires need to be swapped on the POE injector connections. This keeps the data on the right wires and puts the + and – power connections on the lines that the dish needs. Note you should use shielded connections back to the POE injector.
A nice container to keep your starlink in is a Husky 12-gallon bin.